Hi! I'm a new member with questions about my new/old Zodiac SST

[ZSWeiss]

Hi,

My name is Zach Weiss and I am writing to introduce myself, my vintage Zodiac and find out some info for an article I plan on writing. So, I'm a watch collector and nerd to the core who only just recently got into the vintage game. I am also a co-founder of wornandwound.com, a watch site that specializes in talking about affordable and well-designed watches. I have recently started writing about "affordable vintage" watches, and in my research came across Zodiac. Now...my interested started with 60's SeaWolfs (and not just because my initials are ZSW), specifically the ones with white bezel inserts... those are amongst the coolest looking dive watches ever made...and then I became aware of the SST 36000 watches. At that point, my mind was blown. I'm a fan of interesting movements and complications, and the idea of owning a 36k bph watch just thrilled me. However, several months went by before I found a model in good condition, with looks I liked at a good price. Then, I think, I lucked out.

I came across this late 60's model in gold with a standard 3-hand layout and day/date. It's simple and elegant. The watch was in pretty good condition physically and the previous owner, a regular on forums, said the movement had no issues, though he did not know the service history. Well... for $136 shipped (his price! no haggling) I got it. It's a beauty. The dial is in great condition, save a small smudge by 3. The case is fair, not that scratched, serial numbers between the lugs are still visible, the gold isn't worn off. The 2 issues I see, which are only issues for reselling, are that the lugs appear to have been "widened" on the inside to allow for 18mm straps, and the crown does not seem original. Details I can live with for a 136$ 36k BPH watch. (I'm attaching pictures of it to this post, btw)

So, I was wondering if forum members and Zodiac experts here could provide any more info about the watch! I am pretty sure it is a calibre 86 movement, and is from the late 60's... I would love to be able to discuss the history of the Zodiac 36k bph movements in this article as well... Any suggestions on where to start?

Thanks in advance...I'll absolutely give credit where credit is do in my article, and mention this forum regardless, as it's clearly the place to go for Zodiac sales and info. I'm also likely to keep buying zodiacs for my own collection. As far as brands go, these are amongst the most genuinely interesting and unique.

Many thanks,
Zach Weiss

[Nateb123]

Beautiful.  If Butch doesn't come on and give you the exact date himself, there is a website he runs which has most of the zodiac catalogs.  They give tons of info.

No idea what the model name is.  The dressier models being made at this time (1970s) were Goldenline and Kingline but they usually said it on the dial (and many were chronometers).  However it is the same movement as those, and the Olympos SST and Astrographic SST, and were sold with a guarantee that they would keep much better time than the COSC would test for.  I'd say it was probably the pinnacle of Zodiac watchmaking.  They were always a great company, but these movements in particular made it a real pity that they shut down.

Here's some basic specs for you:
http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&167&2uswk&Zodiac_86

[Butch]

Sorry, I read this and meant to come back to it. Pretty much all that Nate said. It is a 1970's day/date dress model from the SST line. It has the 86 in it as you thought. I have one just like it, NOS, in My Watches.

[ZSWeiss]

Hi Nate, Butch,

Thanks so much for the info and the link! I'll post a link to the article when I put it up in a few weeks.

Best,
Zach